TUTORIAL 007: Remy Gem Ring

Do rings elude you? Are they last on your list of jewellery you like making?
If the answers to these questions are Yes!.. maybe it's time to change that. Maybe it's time you found out how easy it really is to make rings. It's a myth that rings are difficult to make.

Do you need a faceted-gem ring design to add to your ring collection?
Never say no to your customers again when they ask if you can set faceted gems. Dig out those gems from your stash
;} ,...you've found a way to set them.

Are you looking for a ring design that is easily adaptable?
So you have a bunch of faceted gems in all shapes and sizes?..no problem. But alas,..a woman at your show, hands you the flat back cabochon she just bought.. no problem,.. measure her up for size and take a deposit.

Are you looking for a ring design that is Unisex?
Is your inventory sadly lacking suitable designs for men? This ring is suitable for both men and women.

Can you measure and make the correct size rings for your customers?
Is this why you don't make rings? With the right tools, it's easier than you think.

In this tutorial you will learn how to make a faceted-gem ring suitable for many different gem shapes and sizes. You will learn how to tweak the design to suit the different shaped gems and also flat back cabochons. You'll learn how to make a knotted shank, measure and make the correct size for your customer, 'size up' for perfect fit and get ideas on how to use your own creative touches to make variations based on the same construction.

Birth of the design.
For a few years, I had thought about designing another ring that would be perfect for faceted gems. I had very definite ideas about what I really wanted to include in the new design, and very definite ideas about some elements I didn’t like in the designs I was already familiar with, and wanted to make sure these elements were not included in the design.

After two recent requests for a faceted gem ring tutorial, I decided it was high time I gathered my thoughts on this again and actually do it. I set out to design this ring based on 7 criteria, which I thought were very important, and set myself a challenge to see if I could cram all 7 of my criteria into one little ring.

The 7 Criteria:
1. Secure setting:
The faceted gem had to be held very securely and withstand hard knocks. Faceted gems can be very expensive, and losing one from a ring you've made, can understandably be upsetting for you and your customer.

2. No prongs:
Yet has the look of a prong-set ring. Avoiding snagging and scratches, which can occasionally occur with some prongs.

3. Gem Shape & Size adaptable:
It had to be a design that could easily be adapted to suit many different shapes & sizes of gems and possibly even flat back cabochons with a slight design tweak.

4. Comfortable
with tidy underside: Must be comfortable with no ‘end off’ wraps around the shoulders of the shank and no untidy mass of wires ending underneath.

5. Simple wire requirements:
Using wire that is readily available to most jewellery makers .  Nothing special required.

6. Quick:
It needed to be a design that would be reasonably quick to make, and after having made a few of these rings, they can be done in around 60mins. Still not bad time-wise for this type of ring.

7. Easy:
Something that looks relatively complicated and skilful, yet quite easy and fun to make.

There was one criteria that was not in the forefront of my mind for it to be pen'd in to my sketch book, however I think it's something we all strive for naturally without thinking or defining it as a criteria as such,.. and that is beauty/attractiveness. I hope I achieved this by default, despite beauty/attractiveness not being the main priority in the design. :)

Designing a ring that is suitable for both men and women wasn't one of my criteria either, but as a lovely bonus, this ring has turned out unisex. With careful selection of gem/stone colour and shape as well as finish treatment, this ring can look very manly as much as it can look very feminine.

The design process of this
ring took two weeks longer than anticipated, since including all 7 criteria proved to be a bigger challenge than first thought. Dozens of sketches and consequent prototypes were created and left in various stages of unfinished, as I’d discover part way through, that some of my criteria could not be met. So it was back to thinking and sketching and more prototypes. However, despite the design being tiresome in it's development, I'm thrilled with the result, (even if I did trash my studio on the process), and hope this design will bring you many sales.

Many thanks for your interest and I hope you are enjoying these tutorials.

Remy.....(DK Heath ).

This tutorial is 56 pages long, and contains 164 photographs.

Download Size : 6.7MB
Download Time: 50sec @ Transfer Rate of 137KB/sec

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Remy Gem Ring

Tutorial ring with rectangle faceted gem.



Triangle cabochon with highly polished finish

Same triangle cabochon with Liver of Sulphur (LOS) finish

Round faceted gemstone

Things you'll need for this tutorial

The list below shows the actual materials used to make this ring however, other metals, gauges of wire, and different size gems can easily be substituted for a different look.

  • 53” (135cm) of 20ga(0.80mm) Dead Soft round sterling silver
    (while DS is recommended, Half Hard also possible but more difficult)
    Cut this wire into:
    2 x 8”(20.5cm) lengths, and 2 x 18.5”(47cm) lengths
  • 47”(119.5cm) of 24ga(0.50mm) soft round sterling silver
  • 11 ¾” (30cm) of 20ga(0.80mm) Half Round sterling silver
  • 10 x 13mm faceted gem
    (please note: while this is the size I used,. close enough to this size is good enough. Square is also fine. Gems 10 x12, 10 x 14, 12 x 12, and other similar sizes all fine)
Flat nose pliers, chain nose pliers, flush cutters, ruler, Quick Lock rubber head clamp, rawhide hammer, sharpie pen, bench vise, ring mandrel and ring gauge (optional).

Quick Lock Clamp
A handy little tool that can be purchased cheaply from
here .

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